No problem! Harder waxes such as Ralph's Wax, and wax-based clays such as CX-5, are wonderful for fine, crisp detail. Wax is the traditional material in industry for sculpting action figures and other small toys, and for sculpting jewelry that will later be cast in precious metal, so that should give you some idea of the detail level possible.
On the other hand, wax is slower to build up than softer media such as Sculpey and modeling clays, and of course it is non-hardening, so if you want a permanent version of your sculpture you will have to mold and cast it.
If it is looking polished while being worked. There are a couplw options, it could be an illusion, because before baking it can have a wet look. Or it can be smothed with a very smooth tool (like the back of a spoon) I have also heard of people using baby oil to help smooth the clay (I have not tried that one) Or it can be sanded with extra fine sandpaper (the stuff used to give auto paint it's glossy finish)
So that answers the sanding question as well. You can also carve it post baking, and you can add more clay and bake again.
Polymer clays are more durable than the air dry clays, but not as strong as the earth clays.
For example, after a few years the skirt that is flying thru the air in back here. Cracked and fell off. Should have used a support, I have been told that even a thin fabric would have helped.
One of the reasons I like the Kato Premo blend is that it is signifcantly stonger than the 1lb box of super sculpy. Kato tends to be the strongest after baking, but is stiffer and harder to work than the others.
As far as sculpting materials go, I would say Polymer clays (like super sculpley) are probably the easiest to store, work with and the least messy. Downside is usually their cost and needing to bake them.
Polymer clays do have some mess factors. It leaves a residue on your hands and work surfaces, that soap and water doesn't clean well. I think I used to use Metho to clean it up, but I hear people say Rubbing alcohol more. It's also quite nasty if you accidentally burn it. A lot of people like to get accessories, gloves, a board to work on, separate toaster oven, a pasta machine to condition it, mineral oil, softening agents, liquid clay etc... tissue blades, sculpting tools, materials for armatures. Frankly, you really just need an oven to get started though.
Super sculpley is aimed more at detailed sculpting in my opinion. I'm only familiar with the beige one, it comes in a larger box, and is very workable and great for fine detail. I've heard there's a firmer one that's grey, but I've never seen it for sale out here.
Other polymer clays, Fimo, Kato, Primo, SculpleyIII, tend to come in little packets in a variety of colours I think they're more targeted at kids or people making miniatures though. Could be good if you weren't sculpting to cast, and didn't want to paint anything.
Youtube has a lot of info on Polymer clays now days, brand comparisons, tutorials, tips etc...
Cold-Porcelain is also an interesting alternative. I've never tried it, but my mother did when I was young. It's far cheaper and air dries, but shrinks, and you used to have to make it on the stovetop. I've seen microwaveable recipes around now though. Always been meaning to try it, but never have.
Trabajo en 3D, tengo pensado comprar una impresora 3D en algún momento, pero la idea de retomar la escultura tradicional es hacer algo manual para salir de lo digital que me consume casi todo el día, aparte de que el método de trabajo es completamente diferente.
Claro. Yo apuntaba al tema que conozco lo que haces en 3d ( estás publicando? ) y me imaginaba que era una opción. Un conocido hace impresiones por secciones ( impresora chica ) y luego ensambla todo, lo ajusta con resina plástica y lija, y quedan muy buenos.