Before I went to an Epson V500 I was using an Epson perfection 4180 and after some time the lights in the lid that are used to illuminate the negative dulled a bit and would leave scan lines EXACTLY like these.
If your not scanning the negs then it will not be this but if you are just have a look at the illumination.
The Epson V500 does not have this problem as it used a different set up and the illumination lights move with the scanning head.
The scientist in me would lean toward testing to find the source of the problem. I'd do two things: 1) Have the film from your Rolleiflex developed at other places and see if the same problem occurs. If it does, then the problem is likely with your camera. 2) Have film from other cameras developed at your normal place. If the same problem occurs, the problem is likely with the lab.
The same issue happened with film out of my Yashica D. It was Kodak 400 Tmax and was given back to me with the same rolls from my Rolleiflex. That is what leads me to believe that it was a problem with the lab.
I used to work in a busy photolab and when films showed signs of fogging/light leaks it was normally due to the film not being properly loaded in the processor. Even by not slamming the door to the processor hard enough caused these sporadic light leaks to occur and as they were so slight it was easy for us (the lab) not to have to accept responsibility...I mostly used to load 35mm and 120 films into the processor and the 120s were the worse as they had to go into a separate loader container and were particularly fiddly. I am (definitely) not an expert but I would guess that the problem occurred with the lab.
Sorry, but it is probably an issue with your Rolleiflex. Your film is showing all of the classic signs of a light seal leak. You need to check your seals. Customarily, these are changed as part of a CLA, but it looks to me like they either skipped this step, did a crappy job, or used crappy materials. If they used foam, check to see if the foam is fairly firm and springy. If they used acrylic yarn, they used the wrong stuff. Wool yarn works, and that is what came in some older cameras, but ideally the seals should be black felt. Foam works too, if it is the right kind of foam. The kind with the big bubbles in it is mirror bumper foam and is not the right kind for light seals.
Do you develop your own film? If not, you need to stop using the service you used for the photos in the first two links, because both show dust spots and in the first shot, the film has a vertical scratch on the non-emulsion side. The scratch might be due to a burr or some dirt on the film pressure plate, so check that, but I doubt that is the problem.
If you do develop your own film, don't wipe your film to clean the water spots off! Instead, skip the Photoflo and dip it in distilled water a few times after a final rinse in tap water. Distilled water doesn't spot and it has no contaminants in it to make dust specks. I can get distilled water at the grocery store for 87 cents a gallon, so it isn't going to break you. Contrary to popular belief, Kimwipes are not entirely lint free either and that may be what is leaving the dust spots on your negatives. If you are not wiping your negatives, you are doing something else that scratched your negative. Scratches don't happen by themselves.
That doesn't mean anything. Even Rollei seals eventually need replacement. He's had the camera CLAd (cleaned, lubed and adjusted) and they are supposed to replace the light seals as a matter of routine. It is looking like whoever did it (and he did NOT work for Rollei) either messed up his old light seals and didn't replace them, took them out and didn't replace them, just plain did a crappy job, or used the wrong materials. Anyway, the big problem isn't dust, it's the big streaks from light leaks (they show up better in the second photo). Either the camera or the machine is leaking light, and his second set of photos shows that it isn't the machine.
Light leaks are often due to drying out / broken rubber sealing inside the camera. It can be fixed by specialists. There were two places I knew which would do that thing, but both gave up business in the last couple of years